R.H. MACY AND ISADOR STRAUS
- THE HISTORY OF RETAIL -
Thanksgiving is the time of year when the internationally known department store celebrates a proud history.
The store was the dream of Rowland Hussey Macy.
R. H. Macy was not an immediate success. He failed at several business ventures before he finally achieved his dream when Macy’s small but fancy dry goods store opened for business in 1858. He needed to choose a symbol for his new store, a trademark that people would remember and that would stand out. He selected a red star to symbolize his navy days and his service to America. He had a red star tattooed to his arm upon his enlistment to the service. He recognized the importance of the star, and he was also very superstitious. He didn’t lose any time in having the red star placed on the sign. The star remains as part of the store logo to this very day. The star revolutionized advertising
A SHINING STAR
Well that star shined over Macy’s. The first day sales totaled only $11.06, but by the end of the first year the books totaled $90,000. R. H. Macy made retail what it is today. He implemented the one price system, which meant that every shopper paid the same price for a said item. He not only began using logos as an advertising tool (The Red Star) He also used the newspaper to bring additional business his way. Advertising his store to the public and showcasing certain products each week with a creative advertising tag line.
He was very proud of the fact that he introduced products to the public such as tea bags and colored bath towels. Macy’s was the first store to promote women to management and executive positions. The first woman manager was named Margaret Getchell.
Margaret Getchell paved the way for many other women who had executive dreams including Hattie Carnegie.
R. H. Macy was never Hattie Carnegie’s boss. Macy died in 1877. Nine years prior to Hattie’s birth. When Macy passed away in he left the store to his daughter and his son to continue the family business.
R. H. Macy Jr. had a severe drinking problem, which was ironic because Macy’s was the first department store to obtain a New York State liquor license.
Sadly, Macy’s son’s drinking problem practically ran his late father’s store into bankruptcy.
It was causing him to make irrational and irresponsible business decisions, he was alienating the employees and board members.
Isador Straus a German immigrant would save the company.
WHO WAS MR. STRAUS?
Isador Straus was born in Rhenish, Bavaria (Germany) on February 6, 1845.
Lazarus Straus settled his family, in Georgia when his eldest son was seven years old.
The young son was gifted so he enrolled and was accepted into a classical music course at Collinsworth Institute. Upon graduation his interests shifted. Classical music study was no longer his first career choice. Music literally became just a career to fall back on. His dream was to enroll at West Point Military Academy, but with the onset of the Civil War He wanted to serve so he volunteered to sign up for the Confederate Army, but he was rejected because at sixteen they thought that he was too young to volunteer and they were concerned about his ability to be an effective soldier. Isador felt like his career options were running out, therefore he decided to work in his father’s store at least until the war officially ended
The south struggled throughout the war. Following the bloody and bitter five-year battle the south struggled to rebuild their economy. The south was a difficult place to survive. The war had destroyed the economy and many southerners were close to starvation.
The Straus family had now adopted a strong southern identity, but they made the difficult decision to relocate in one of the northern cities. Isador suggested New York City to his father who reluctantly agreed. When they settled in New York City, Lazarus again reopened his glassware business renaming it L. Straus and Sons. Since their births, Lazarus had hoped that his sons would wish to continue the business he built someday to encourage them he changed the name. L. Straus and Sons was a proven success in addition to glassware and earthenware they also specialized in china and porcelain.
STRAUS AS A LEADER
In 1874, R.H. Macy, who was a very busy man and discovered he needed management assistance. He asked the Straus to take charge and manage the department store glassware department. Shortly before his death, Macy who had a reputation for buying out his competition bought out eleven of the neighboring buildings expanding the store an entire block. Mr. Straus had many ideas to improve upon the business of his friend and former employer. He strived to keep Macy’s dream a reality. Despite his honorable intentions he still didn’t have complete authority to implement his improvements. He was equally distressed by the poor management decisions of R.H. Macy Jr. who took over the store after his father’s passing in 1877. The younger Macy’s poor management skills were at least partially attributed to his drinking problem. Mr. Straus purchased the department store from R. H. Macy Jr. who was more than happy to give up the responsibility in 1888.
Isador and Nathan took over the management of the store while brother Oscar, traveled overseas buying merchandise to sell in the store. Oscar Straus was involved in politics. He was a member of President Roosevelt cabinet in the Department of Commerce and Labor. He was also appointed as Ambassador to Turkey. That allowed him the opportunity to travel selecting interesting and sought after items to sell at Macy’s.
Isador and his brothers selected to retain the name Macy’s for two reasons, out of respect for their former employer and also because the name was internationally known.
Little Henrietta , Mr. Straus and Macy's
Henrietta Kanengeiser first walked through the Macy’s Department Store doors in 1902 at the encouragement of friends who wanted her to see the beautiful fashions and jewelry.
She was told that she should also inquire about any job openings.
She didn’t want to go into the store simply to dream. Henrietta couldn’t even afford to purchase a pair of socks from Macy’s, but as usual curiosity got the best of Henrietta.
She ventured into the Women’s Department and looked around at the stylish dresses and hats that she couldn’t possibly afford on a factory workers salary, till she stopped a dress that she didn’t like.
Offering unsolicited advice to the management and designers she gave her opinion,
“I don’t like this dress it’s far too plain, but would look fabulous with a fir collar and cuffs.”
She wanted to know what everybody thought.
Mr. Straus became very annoyed at this young girl who obviously hadn’t any intention of purchasing a dress criticizing the merchandise.
He said, “You can’t be serious, you don’t put a fir collar and cuffs on an evening gown!”
Mr. Straus now gave his opinion, “You are a foolish girl, and you don’t work here.”
Not ready to be shown the door just yet, Henrietta scribbled her name on a slip on paper and shouted at Mr. Straus, “If you don’t want to take my advice, then you can at least give me a job.”
Mr. Straus decided to try her idea, maybe out of admiration of her independent nature, maybe out of sheer annoyance and exhaustion from arguing with her. It was most likely a little bit of both. The dresses with the fur collars and cuffs sold unbelievably well. He located Henrietta and offered her a job in the women’s department.
Over the next several years, Henrietta and Mr. Straus would have many other battles of wills, but the initial distain for one another turned into a mutual admiration and respect.
Mr. Straus considered Henrietta a young prodigy and her ideas continued to make the department store money. She didn’t have a fancy wardrobe, so they fitted her with a few dresses free of charge, if she agreed to model them. She was offered management and millinery training. “Hattie” excelled at Macy’s and became an ambitious young lady. She put her education to good use when she opened up her own shop years later.
The Titanic
The year was 1912 and Isador Straus had been married to his wife Ida for over thirty years. The couple was very much in love. They were the proud parents of six grown children. The couple found an excuse to celebrate everything which really wasn’t difficult when they even shared a birthday. Isador feeling over worked at Macy’s decided to take a relaxing vacation with Ida to Europe. They also brought their staff with them. Traveling along with the couple was their butler and housekeeper. Also accompanying the couple on the voyage to Europe was their youngest daughter Beatrice. To conclude their wonderful vacation Isador wanted to travel back to New York in style, so they booked a first class cabin on the brand new ship The Titanic. The only person absent from the return trip was Beatrice who wanted to stay in Europe a little longer
They were pleased and very excited to travel on this ship that sea captains raved about. There was much talk about the unsinkable luxury liner.
A cold April night a tragedy happened, the ship hit an iceberg and slowly sank into the ocean. Most of the third class passengers drowned and the ones that didn’t drown froze to death in the frigid waters of the North Atlantic. When the first class passengers first sensed their lives were in danger. The situation was chaotic. There weren’t enough lifeboats because the ship was said to be unsinkable People fought over the boats.
It was decided that women and children were to get into the available lifeboats first.
Isador begged Ida to get into a boat, but when she was told that her husband wasn’t going to be rescued she leaped out the boat and ran into his arms. Isador was recognized as the owner of Macy’s Department Store. He was told that he was important and that he should get to a lifeboat fast. In a act of bravery and unselfishness. Isador Straus said he was no more important than other man he was simply just more well known. He would let a woman who still remained on the ship take a spot in a lifeboat. That was very courageous. He gave up his life so another person could row to safety.
Ida and Isador Straus died in each other arms.
Mr. Straus, a very important mentor to Hattie Carnegie. Now I understand why he was. Isador Straus was a true hero.
Hattie never forgot him. She was deeply saddened to learn of his passing because she owed so much to his kindness. The joint funeral for the couple was held at Carnegie Hall. The lives and the unselfish sacrifice of this loving couple was honored by over 6000 attendees.
Did you know?
From the Cyclopedia:
He and his wife, a woman of sweetness and strength, were passengers on the SS Titanic on its ill-fated maiden voyage across the Atlantic. When the order was given for women and children to take to the life-boats, Mrs. Straus would not leave her husband. Straus was strongly urged to take a place in the boats with her, but refused to do so as long as any women remained on board. Mrs. Straus declined to be separated from her companion of forty years, so the aged couple went down with the ship. Straus' was a strong individuality, compounded of keen insight, sound judgement, high integrity, candid statement, and high executive powers. He was a man of simple tastes, democratic accessibility, and cordial large-heartedness
From THE CYCLOPEDIA OF AMERICAN BIOGRAPHY (aka 'Appleton's), ed. J.E,
Homans. Volume X, p. 204. New York: Press Association Compilers, Inc., 1924:
He was a warm friend of President Cleveland and took an active part in the campaign which resulted in Cleveland's re-election in 1892. It is said that he was invited to become Postmaster General, but declined the honor. It was due to his influence that Cleveland set himself fairly behind the gold standard and called Congress in extra session (8/7/1893) for the repeal of that clause of the Sherman Act which compelled the Treasury to make monthly purchases of silver bullion for monetary purposes. Straus remained a Gold Democrat, losing his party enthusiasm when his party adopted the Free Silver platform under William Jennings Bryan's leadership...He served in Congress from 1/30/1894-3/3/1895, declining renomination. He also declined to be considered for the Democratic nomination for mayor of New York in 1901 and 1909.
REFERENCES
Titanic the Musical
http://www.dodger.com/titanic/titanic-bio-keith.htm
Isador Straus’ obituary
http://www.encyclopedia-titanica.org/item.php/3855.html
The History of Macy’s
http://www.macys.com/store/about/history/index_my.jsp?bhcp=1
Ida and Isador Straus
http://members.aol.com/ken63728/cr7.htm
From Biography
http://home.interlynx.net/~dclarke/straus.htm
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The Controversial BusinesswomanHattie Carnegie was well ahead of her time in many aspects. She was direct and outspoken, when it was not acceptable for women to be that way. She knew what she wanted in life and she knew that she could not be passive to achieve her dreams.
As I have stated throughout this website Hattie was not a stranger to controversy, but she did protect herself and she could be fiercely private. This site was a difficult time consuming project for me because Hattie was very successful in separating her personal life from her business persona and from her career, but some things followed her throughout her lifetime. She could not erase the label she was given to her. The label that she earned which was the label of a controversial businesswoman.
Hattie made no excuses, about some of the items she sold in her shop including the lacy, silky lingerie, which she promoted in her catalogs. She commented in a 1945 interview, that she believed that women dressed to please men, not to impress other women, and they should dress to make the man in their life happy. That was important to remember that the woman should always be noticed before the dress and the dress should complement the woman’s beauty to the extent that people will first notice
What a beautiful woman instead of what a beautiful dress when a woman enters a room.
Hattie was the first to raise hemlines above the knee, which just like the lingerie displeased many of her older, once loyal customers. When Hattie had the grand opening of her Jenue Fille shop. Many parents were concerned about the merchandise that she might be promoting in her new shop to their impressionable teenage girls based on some of the merchandise that she sold in her other shops. Hattie quickly eased their fears by telling them that all the clothing and styles were age appropriate, she personally felt that a young lady should be decently covered. If her customers wished to inspect some of the inventory they were more than welcome to browse but she defended her position on a few changes in the fashion world like that she still thought that nothing was wrong with the raised hemlines.
Aline Griffith who worked for Hattie Carnegie in the 1940’s and resigned to assist the allies during
World War II authored a series of three books about her experiences before, during and after the war, she talked about her years modeling for Hattie in her first book titled “The Spy who Wore Red.” In this book, she mentioned how much her grandmother objected to a young lady modeling, dressing up and wearing all that make-up. She begged her grandmother not to talk to Hattie about her objections because it would embarrass her.
Aline may have been embarrassed but Hattie certainly was not. Here was a woman, who although it was not intended once conducted an emergency business meeting while she was at home taking a bubble bath. Hattie was also known to bring several outfits to work with her everyday, because when someone would ask for a suit like the one that she was currently wearing she would go into one of the dressing rooms, change her outfit and pass her startled customer the suit that she was previously wearing. One fashion magazine writer once got the shock of her life when Hattie went into the dressing room to change her outfit yet again, The writer was scheduled to interview her, Hattie had forgotten all about the scheduled interview that particular afternoon, When she heard her name being called she thought it was only one of her employees, she stepped out of the dressing room and was wearing nothing but her slip.
Hattie loved makeup and began wearing cosmetics when she was employed through Macy’s Department Store. The other girls taught her how to properly wear cosmetics. Hattie loved all the various shades and colors. Cosmetics were controversial during her teenage years, but she did not care. Hattie began her own line of cosmetics years later in 1946 and she offered her employees and customer’s lessons in applying cosmetics and matching the shades.
Hattie was known to be very truthful and honest with her customers. She would risk the loss of a sale rather than have a woman walk out of her shop wearing an outfit she considered unbecoming on them. She offended many customers by being so direct. Many salesgirls were shocked that Hattie would actually kill a sale just because she did not approve of the customers selection. Hattie would still give her salesgirl her commission because her customer was buying and it was Hattie who killed the sale.
Hattie Carnegie wasn’t afraid to offer her opinions on a wide range of taboo subjects, including prohibition, smoking and divorce.
Hattie disagreed with prohibition; she thought the entire restriction was wrong. She confessed in later interviews that during prohibition she knew where to get alcohol, and enjoyed social drinking at parties, especially champagne proudly proclaiming That prohibition did not stop nor her friends.
Hattie was often the type who believed, Do as I say, not as I do, when she found out a group of her young models were out drinking and partying at illegal speakeasies around New York. City, her motherly side surfaced when she lectured them about their behavior telling them that she was very upset and disappointed that they would do such a thing . One of the girls defended herself by addressing Hattie’s behavior,
“You and Major Zanft drink?” Hattie response was simply, “That’s Okay, we’re old!”
Hattie started smoking cigarettes when she arrived in America. It was just getting fashionable for young women to smoke; those fancy holders made it all the more glamorous and appealing because you could look chic with a cigarette in your hand. Hattie’s mother hated it when her daughter smoked and always made her put out the cigarette immediately.
Helen Kanengeiser (Carnegie) objections to her daughter smoking the cigarettes was not because the cigarettes were unhealthy because the dangers of smoking were not discovered yet. It was because it was unladylike.
Hattie’s mother attended the majority of the fashion shows. Helen Carnegie was a little woman who had blonde hair and curls, and she looked like an older version of Hattie.
Hattie’s employees loved Mrs. Carnegie, and watching Mrs. Carnegie lecture her daughter was priceless. They thought it was hysterical when she would catch Hattie lighting a cigarette, she would yell at her with that thick Austrian accent, “Henrietta, put out that awful cigarette now!” And they would all laugh hysterically
On the day of her divorce, Hattie felt that she needed to sign those papers and when she did so she was free.
Free from a tradition in her culture which she did not agree with “Arranged Marriages” Even though she was born out of an arrangement she still spoke out against arrangements because she thought they were unfair to everyone involved. “Why should a person be forced to marry someone that they didn’t love or only met if they strictly followed tradition on their wedding day. She tried to accept the tradition and did so for many years, divorce was so taboo, her husband did not believe in divorce, so they compromised on trial separations. The couple would separate and Hattie would travel to Europe without her husband. Then they would reunite and he would travel with her, attempting yet again to make the marriage work, but it was to no avail. They eventually went to the courthouse and signed the papers. When she signed the papers, she told the public, that she did not hold any bitterness toward her ex husband and wished him well because she really did care about him, but she just did not love him. Eventually they both felt locked in to that marriage, signing those papers meant freedom. She thought that divorce could be a positive step for a couple who were unhappy.
When she married Major John Zanft, Hattie was on her third marriage, she became the subject of gossip as to how long this marriage was going to last. She ignored the press because she loved John. Hattie proved her critics wrong because this marriage lasted until her death.
John would often be called to Hollywood to assist with various projects. Many times Hattie had to stay behind in New York when asked how she felt about her husband traveling without her she surprised many people when she said, that he never gave her a reason not to trust him, so it did not bother her if he went without her. Hattie seemed secure in his love for her and she was not the least bit jealous. She trusted him.
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HATTITUDE
Hattie Carnegie's temper was as well known in fashion circles as her little Carnegie suit.
Her petite stature might have fooled some people momentarily that she was passive that was until someone made her angry.
Hattie would seldom shy away from a confrontation. She was also very direct and outspoken. Sometimes her outbursts were uncalled for and totally irrational, sometimes they had a purpose because she was a little lady trying to make it in the business world when the business world was an unaccepting and extremely cold place for a woman in charge, not only that Hattie's beloved father Isaac, didn't even take her dreams seriously when she was growing up and she treasured her fathers opinion. Other times I tend to believe that Hattie's anger was a defense mechanism. Hattie had a difficult and challenging life from the very beginning. She was born into extreme poverty and was expected to be a little adult and to take on the responsibilities of an adult even before she even officially became a teenager, because this was ingrained into her at such an early age she grew up expecting those around her to take the same serious approach to life.
Hattie Carnegie was a teacher above all, she may not have have carried a wooden ruler to slap knuckles, but she had unlimited access to pins and she could stick a person just like they were a homemade voodoo doll. Lucille Ball noted this in her biography, "Love, Lucy" that when she would tire and become restless during fittings she was start to joke around. Hattie would stick her with a pin to bring her back to reality, then she would pretend that it was accident but Lucille knew that it was attempt to get her to listen to direction. Hattie actually thought that Lucille was a riot, but she would never admit it to her and she would often turn away, so Lucille would not see her laughing at her antics.
Aline Griffith described her modeling experience in this way. Hattie was very strict and she wanted her employees to be prompt and she didn't like to accept excuses for tardiness. Aline had been late to work all week. After the third day this happened Hattie told her that if she was late one more time that she was going to be in trouble, and she best be on time tomorrow because they had an important photo shoot and it was going to take all day. The following day was a cold, rainy, muddy March morning and Aline knew that she was going to be late yet again, and she knew that Hattie wasn't going to be happy. To save time she decided to hail a taxi cab, she arrived at the shop in record time. She was going to make it, she was in such a hurry that she practically threw the money at the taxi cab driver, but when she getting out of the taxi cab she lost her footing and fell face down in a mud puddle. The beautiful light blue dress that she was wearing for the upcoming photo shoot was totally ruined, she panicked because Hattie was going to be furious, not only was she late, but the dress that she changed into at home to save time was now ruined. She was prepared for the worst.
Hattie came down the staircase, she spotted Aline was standing there looking pitiful awaiting her punishment
At first Hattie stared at her in stunned silence than she did something unexpected and completely out of character she burst out laughing. Hattie was still in hysterics when she commented, "Aline, No self respecting girl would show up to work like that, you can go and change into a different dress we will wait." Aline was relieved, she was saved another day.
John Zanft may have been in the army, but it was Hattie who had the temper of a drill sergeant. John would often defend Hattie's employees, by telling her that they were just kids. Ironically he didn't feel that way about the kids that he dealt with on a daily basis at the reformatory.
The kids at the reformatory hadn't any ambition they were there because they committed some very serious crimes, but society had decided and John Zanft wanted to save these kids from a life behind bars.
Hattie's employees were the opposite they were the best of the best kids with ambition and heart they were chosen by Hattie for their determination and skill. John sometimes thought that Hattie was too strict with the ambitious kids. Hattie disagreed with her husband and defended her position by stating that if they couldn't take simple direction from her that they would never make in their chosen fields, they were ambitious because adults were strict with them. She was decidedly the hardest on those that she liked the best, believed in the most, but just as equally she cheered them on in their accomplishments.
One employee of Hattie's had this to say about the
"Tiny Dynamo"
Hattie is fiercely loyal to those employees, that she loves, she will never really fire them, but if she doesn't like you, you might as well leave because you will never get anywhere if you get on her bad side."
Hattie would have a temper tantrum, fire an employee and before they could make it to the next block they would be rehired. She was quick to snap and lose her temper, but she would be just as quick to forgive, and the next day all would be fine in Carnegie's world.
When she lost her temper she would shout,
"You're Fired, Get out!"
The employee never cried or yelled back at her because they were used to it, many were actually happy.
How could they be upset, they had the afternoon off and it was a beautiful day in New York.
Hattie cheerfully plead guilty to her temper. It's a simple fact that she was proud of it. She would always say that she was tough on her employees, she expected a lot from them, but that was because they were gifted and she wanted them to make the most of their talents.
She often took a group of aspiring designers with her on her trips to Paris. The designers were eager to go. Hattie would pay their tickets, but she wanted them to understand that this was not a vacation and they were going to learn a lot. When the designers appeared restless at the announcement, Hattie response was,
"You all best listen because you may be tested later. "
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Hattie Carnegie Jewelry
When someone hears the name Hattie Carnegie, the first thought that comes to most, is hats, dresses, fashionable suits, and evening attire. During her lifetime, she was a household name but Hattie Carnegie was never credited as a jewelry designer.
It is documented, in a number of reliable sources that Hattie did not officially launch a jewelry line until 1939. Even at it’s onset in 1939, the jewelry line was secondary to the fashions and was merely utilized as a complimentary item to a beautiful dress.
Hattie Carnegie actually always loved jewelry. She was most partial to turquoise and pearls. Pearls would eventually become her trademark. Major John Zanft bought her a beautiful three-strand necklace; it is rare to find a photograph of Hattie when she is not wearing those beloved pearls.
Hattie adored pearls so much that when John proposed to her he put the diamond ring back and selected a rare pearl ring encircled by diamonds for his bride. I saw a picture of Hattie’s beautiful ring, but could not enlarge it enough to get a decent picture to place on the site.
John made another wonderful contribution, not just to Hattie for buying her that pearl necklace and interesting wedding ring, but to all of us, who collect, enjoy and wear Hattie Carnegie jewelry to this day. He encouraged her to begin a jewelry line of her own when he saw that her jewelry box was overflowing with both fine jewelry and costume jewelry. She always mentioned to him that a nice outfit was made even more special with a beautiful necklace or bracelet to match. Hattie actually experimented with a piece of jewelry here and there when she incorporated her famous HC in a diamond mark in 1919, however she still did not have an official line. Those early photographs of Hattie Carnegie models, included a young Lucille Ball often wore matching necklaces and/or bracelets in the photographs but the jewelry probably was not a Hattie Carnegie original, it was most likely from a well-known jewelry company of the day. Hattie freely complemented these companies in her early advertisements because she did not sense a threat from them at least up until 1939 when she officially launched her own collection.
Hattie always wanted to be credited for her hard work, so it is very rare to find an unsigned Hattie Carnegie piece.
Hattie worked hard to achieve success, to her, having her name stamped on her work was not so much a sign of vanity or pride, but as a reminder to the once poor tenement girl of how much she had achieved in the land of opportunity.
Companies such as Hattie Carnegie Inc had to buy a number of pieces from wholesale jewelry companies to have their company logo or designer signature stamped upon the piece, so that is why a collector can locate a number of the same pieces or styles attributed to a specific designer or company.
Hattie Carnegie’s company did design custom made clothing that was hand made by her designers at her New York shop, this was not the case with the jewelry line that was never custom made within Hattie’s shop.
Wholesale Jewelry Companies
She selected a few trusted wholesale companies to design her jewelry.
A jewelry designer that Hattie really liked was a man by the name of Jacques “Jack” Libuono. I would have to assume that Hattie had a special fondness for Mr. Libuono because he loved the French designs that she herself was so drawn to.
Hattie also liked to purchase jewelry from the Kasnoffs.
Dan Kasnoff and his son Larry sold under the name of Florenza.
The Kasnoffs had other famous clientele. Ironically, many of these companies were Hattie Carnegie competitors such as Weiss, Kramer, Coro, Capri and Revlon. The Kasnoffs also sold jewelry under their own signature label of Florenza. Hattie Carnegie’s brother in law often picked up the orders for her which Hattie Carnegie had personally selected. Hattie would carefully look at and examine every example, she refused to be rushed. Her employees and wholesalers were made nervous by this trait.
Strictest of Standards
Hattie Carnegie held the strictest of standards with any item that carried her name because it was a reflection of her shop. Hattie would not hesitate and was known to actually return a piece if it was not to her liking. Everything that was sold in Hattie’s shop had to appeal to her personal sense of style and if it did not it was to be scarped.
In additional to the traditional jewelry like the bracelets and necklaces. Hattie also sold hair ornaments, buckles and jewelry boxes under the names of either “Pooped Pussy Cat” or “Pooped Poodle”
The poodle name was in reference to her pet, a little black toy poodle. A poodle was also used as a logo for her company. I have only seen one ring that was designed with Hattie’s signature, although I am sure there must have been others.
Treasured Collections
I love Hattie Carnegie jewelry; I am always pleased to acquire a new Hattie Carnegie jewel to wear.
Many people ask me why I choose to wear my valuable collection, but I personally believe that a collection is meant to be enjoyed by the collector. I do however have a few special pieces that I refuse to wear and are kept safely in a display case, but I refuse to have a collection of something that I love if it is going to sit there and just collect dust.
My husband does not understand why if I was given a choice that I would rather have a piece of costume jewelry by Hattie Carnegie as opposed to the fine jewelry that is found in any number of jewelry stores.
My answer is that my Hattie Carnegie collection has as much endearing and sentimental value to me as his collection of New England Patriots merchandise does to him. He does not understand why costume jewelry collectors, such as ourselves, seek out their favorite designer and it is such a quest to locate that perfect piece or that we as collectors would be hundreds of dollars for a piece of “fake” jewelry.
For example, Months ago, I wanted a Hattie Carnegie ladybug. I bid on several ladybugs on eBay, and was outbid each time. I was getting discouraged. Brian just typed in ladybug and he spotted an adorable bug, but it wouldn’t do for me because it was NOT A HATTIE CARNEGIE. My husband does not see the value of a designer piece. He just simply sees the item. To him, a ladybug is a ladybug. By the way, I eventually got my treasured ladybug, but I paid a pretty penny for it. Brian wants me to hock my collection to purchase a new computer. I do not think that is going to happen. Brian would not hesitate to pay a couple hundred dollars for an authentic signed photograph of Super Bowl champion and New England Patriots quarterback Tom Brady, but when I mention paying a couple hundred dollars for a rare Hattie necklace or pin. His answer is, “It’s not the same thing.”
Oh well, I cannot expect him to understand.
My Favorite Hattie Jewelry Is
My favorite Hattie styles are her animal pins, because they are so detailed and lifelike. My own personal Hattie Carnegie zoo and you do not have to feed them.
I also love the sparkly rhinestone necklaces that glow in the sun almost like real diamonds, and the colorful glass pieces.
My Least Favorite Hattie Jewelry Is
There are however I few Hattie jewelry styles that I tend to avoid, especially the abstract designs. I just really do not care for abstract art or jewelry. I consider it ugly and too new age for me.
When I look at a painting, or in this case a pin. I want to know at first glance what it is, I do not want to guess or assume what something is supposed to be or to represent. I guess I just prefer my mysteries to be printed in a novel, not on my lapel.
Another style that I don’t particular care for is plastic pieces, although I must admit a few I have seen are very nice. I used to love plastic charm necklaces, and collecting the various charms when they were all the rage when I was growing up in the 1980’s. Lately though, I have been more drawn to the glowing rhinestone jewelry.
Discovered a Love For
Other items that I used to not care for, but now love are the faux topaz stones. I think they are very beautiful..
I would also love to acquire a rare HC marked piece which I do not own yet.
Obviously, the above statements are my personal opinions about what I prefer; another collector could feel completely different from me. That is the wonderful thing about Hattie Carnegie jewelry, she was very classy, but also very open minded, fun loving and adventurous, therefore she left a wide variety of styles for the collector to select from for their personal collections that are a reflection of what they love.
She was an intelligent businesswoman.
For examples of Hattie's beautiful jewelry in all styles.
Please refer to the Jewelry section
Hattie and Law-SUITS
Hattie was known for extending credit to her friends and associates. It earned Hattie a very loyal customer base. However sometimes this practice backfired. Hattie was involved in two well publicized lawsuits during the 1930’s that she filed against former customers. The first was filed against James J. Walker and his wife for $12,059 the remaining balance due on a $20,059 bill
Hattie’s second lawsuit was filed against Clarence Buddington Kelland for $3,313. When contacted about the matter by Hattie Carnegie Inc he ripped up the bill because he believed the husband should not be held financially responsible for the unreasonable debts of his wife and he claimed that Ms. Carnegie’s prices were high and very unreasonable.
Mr. Kelland told the press My financial condition at no time would justify panty hose at $6.50, cloth coats at $450.00 and there wasn’t way was he was going to be made to pay $250.00 for a dress. He also added a few choice comments about Ms. Carnegie
Mr. Kelland had to pay the debt as Hattie was awarded a judgment in the 1933 case which included claims for chiffon handkerchiefs at $10.00 each, and boxes of talc for $7.50 per box.
Hattie was asked why she would wish to file suit against her customers when the Depression was so harsh on everybody.
Hattie defended her actions and replied, “Well isn’t that the point, I have employees to pay, and if all my customers refused to pay their outstanding balances, I would be unable to pay my employees who have families to provide for, Not only that, These customers are technically stealing from me and my employees, and I want to make an example of that type of customer and this will not be tolerated by me."
On the other side of the coin, Hattie was also the defendant in a few lawsuits.
At one point prior to their marriage, and after World War I ended, Now newly reintroduced to civilian life but not ready to retire, John Zanft wanted to begin his own production company . So he borrowed a loan from Samuel Katz.
John ventured out to Hollywood with $11,000 in hand. John’s attempts at achieving his dream of founding an independent production company failed, and he resigned himself to working on the occasional project as an employee with other movie companies. He returned to New York City and resumed writing his column for the New York based Morning Telegraph. He filed bankruptcy when he begun to struggle financially. He promised Katz that he would pay his debt whenever he could manage to pay it.
Thanks to his friend William Fox who thought that John was a skilled and talented entertainment writer. He befriended John and offered him an opportunity that John could not refuse. He appointed John as Vice President of all the Fox Theaters in New York City. With this new found success , John was officially discharged from bankruptcy and paid Sam Katz $500.00 of the $11,000 that he still owed him. He asked Katz to be patient that he intended to pay the debt off in full as soon as he could manage.
John kept his word and eventually paid off the entire $11,000 dollars, that he had owed Katz.
John thought that was the end of his obligation to Katz, but Katz filed a surprise lawsuit against John that stated the he felt that John owed him an additional $605.27 of accrued interest that was never mentioned in the original document that John signed and agreed to pay upon.
John was sued by Katz for that interest amount.
On May 24th 1938, Hattie supported her husband, and spoke upon his behalf to the press outside of the courthouse. She said that her husband was being treated unfairly, and he had already paid the debt therefore he owed Mr. Katz……NOTHING! The judge agreed and ruled against Samuel Katz.
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KNOCK-OFFS
When Hattie Carnegie held any fashion show it was always with great ceremony. Yet the fanciest of invitations were sent out by her employees, just four times a year when she showcased her upcoming fashion line for each season of the year. The seasonal shows in particular were the time
HATTIE WAS EMPLOYED BY AND WAS A MACY'S DEPARTMENT STORE TRAINEE FROM 1902-1909
Macy's Department Store around 1910 (The year after Hattie left.)
